Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear Fly Instructions and Materials

Hare's Ear fly on the vise.
The hare’s ear fly is a versatile nymph that belongs in your tackle box

The Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear is one of the most effective and widely used nymph patterns in fly fishing. It’s simple to tie, easy to customize, and proven to catch fish in a wide range of conditions. This fly imitates many types of aquatic insects, making it useful throughout the year in both rivers and still water.

This guide will walk you through the materials needed to tie your own Hare’s Ear nymph, along with clear instructions for each step of the process. Whether you’re just starting out or looking to tie a dependable fly that works in most situations, the Hare’s Ear is a solid choice that delivers consistent results.

About the Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear Fly

The Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear fly is a truly versatile nymph pattern, widely regarded as one of the most effective and adaptable flies in a fly fisher’s arsenal. Tied in various colors, from light tans to darker olive or brown hues, the Hare’s Ear can be customized to match a broad range of aquatic insects in different environments. The core of its effectiveness lies in its ability to mimic a variety of nymphs, such as mayflies, caddis larvae, and stoneflies, making it an excellent general-purpose fly for all kinds of freshwater fishing.

What makes the Hare’s Ear so adaptable is its use of hare’s mask dubbing, which is a natural material that gives the fly a buggy, textured look. This dubbing can be mixed with other colors or materials to create different variations suited to local waters, whether it’s the pale cream tones of mayfly nymphs or the darker hues of stonefly larvae. For those who prefer, store-bought dubbing materials can be substituted, but the natural feel of hare’s mask is preferred for its authenticity and lifelike movement in the water.

The ribbing, usually created with gold tinsel or copper wire, not only adds a distinctive touch but also serves a practical purpose. The ribbing’s reflective shine catches the light and adds flash, which attracts fish, even in murky or dimly lit waters. The segmented body that results from the ribbing and dubbing mimics the natural segmentation found in many aquatic insects, making it especially effective in enticing hungry fish that are actively feeding.

Quick Summary of Materials

  • Hook: Nymph hook, sizes #10–#18

  • Thread: 6/0 or 8/0, brown/tan/olive

  • Weight (Optional): Lead wire (.015–.025) or gold/copper bead head

  • Tail: Hare’s mask guard hairs or squirrel/rooster tail fibers

  • Ribbing: Fine gold tinsel or small copper wire

  • Body: Hare’s mask dubbing, tapered

  • Thorax: Thicker hare’s mask dubbing

  • Wing Case (Optional): Turkey quill or similar material

Materials Explained

To tie a Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear nymph, start with a nymph hook like the Mustad 3906b or something similar. Hook size will vary depending on what you’re trying to imitate—use sizes 16 or 18 for smaller, more realistic patterns, or go with 12 or 10 to represent larger nymphs like mayflies. Make sure whatever hook you choose is strong enough to hold up under pressure and support the materials you’ll be tying on.

Pair your hook with the right thread—either 8/0 or 6/0, depending on hook size. Finer thread like 8/0 is better for small hooks, while 6/0 offers more durability on larger patterns. Choose a thread color that blends well with the rest of the materials, such as brown, tan, or olive. The thread should be strong enough to handle the tension from tying in materials without breaking mid-fly.

Adding weight is optional, but helpful if you want your fly to reach the bottom quickly. Lead wire in sizes .015 or .025 works well depending on how heavy you want the fly. Another option is a bead head—usually in gold or copper—which adds weight and also gives the fly a small amount of flash. If you choose to use a bead head, make sure the thread is tied off snugly right behind it to keep everything secure.

For the tail, the traditional material is hare’s mask, but you can also use alternatives like rooster tail fibers or squirrel tail. Hare’s mask gives the fly a more rigid structure, while rooster and squirrel tails move more naturally in the water. Aim for a tail that’s about as long as the hook shank or just a bit longer for a cleaner profile.

Ribbing gives the fly its name and adds both flash and structure. Use small-diameter gold tinsel or copper wire to wrap over the body. This helps create visible segmentation that mimics real insects and gives the fly a bit of extra appeal. Make sure the ribbing is subtle enough not to overpower the rest of the fly but strong enough to stay in place and last through multiple uses.

The body is built using hare’s mask dubbing. This natural material gives the fly a realistic, slightly rough texture that imitates the appearance of a live nymph. You can apply the dubbing with your fingers or a dubbing tool, and you should aim for a slight taper from the tail to the front to maintain a natural shape.

For the thorax, use more hare’s mask dubbing, but build it up a little thicker than the rest of the body. This thicker section near the head helps imitate the natural shape of many aquatic insects and adds to the overall realism of the pattern.

To finish the fly, create a wing case using turkey quill. Tie the feather in on top of the thorax and fold it over when ready to close the fly. This step helps the pattern resemble an insect that’s either maturing or in the early stages of emergence.

With the right materials and careful attention to sizing and proportions, you’ll be ready to tie your own Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear flies that are ready for just about any freshwater situation.

Tying Instructions

Start by attaching the thread just behind the hook eye and wrap it toward the bend, laying down an even thread base along the hook shank. This gives you a clean surface to build on and keeps all materials secure as you move through the steps. Once the thread reaches the bend, grab a small bunch of fibers from a hare’s mask or a red squirrel tail. Measure the tail to be about the same length as the hook shank and tie it in with a few tight wraps right at the bend, making sure it sits straight and doesn’t flare out too much.

With the tail secured, tie in a piece of fine gold tinsel or small copper wire at the same point. This material will be used to rib the body later, so just let it hang off the back for now. Then grab a small amount of hare’s mask dubbing and apply it to the thread by twisting it between your fingers. Wrap this dubbed thread forward along the hook to build the body, aiming for a slight taper that’s thicker near the back and thinner as it moves forward. Cover about two-thirds of the hook shank, leaving room for the thorax and wing case.

Once the body is built, take the ribbing material and wrap it forward over the dubbing in evenly spaced turns, moving in the opposite direction of your dubbing wraps. This not only helps reinforce the body but also adds a segmented look that mimics the natural ridges on an insect’s body. Tie off the ribbing at the front of the body and trim the excess.

Cut a small strip of turkey quill and tie it in on top of the hook shank, right in front of where the body ends. The strip should point toward the back of the hook for now, and you’ll fold it over the thorax later. Next, apply more hare’s mask dubbing to the thread and build up a fuller, slightly rounded thorax section. This should be bulkier than the body and taper just a little toward the front.

After the thorax is in place, pull the turkey quill forward and lay it flat over the top. Tie it down just behind the hook eye with a few snug wraps to form the wing case. Trim off any excess quill and use your thread to build a small, tidy head between the wing case and the eye. Finish the fly with a whip finish or a few half hitches and trim the thread.

To make the fly more durable, apply a small drop of head cement to the thread wraps at the head. You can also add a drop on top of the wing case for added strength and a bit of shine. If you’re using a bead head, most of these steps stay the same, but you’ll start by sliding the bead onto the hook before tying in the thread, and then finish the fly by tying off just behind the bead.

For a quick way to give your fly legs, take a dubbing needle or brush and gently tease out some of the dubbing from the thorax on each side. This gives the fly a more lifelike profile without adding any extra materials. You can also lightly pick at the abdomen to bring out more texture, which helps the fly look more buggy and natural in the water. Just a few tweaks with the brush can really boost the fly’s realism and movement.

When to Use the Hare’s Ear Fly Pattern

The Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear fly is a year-round pattern that excels in various fishing conditions, making it a go-to option for nymph fishing. Whether you’re fishing in the early spring, the middle of the summer, or deep into the fall, the Hare’s Ear is a fly that works in virtually any season. Its ability to mimic a wide range of nymphs means that it can represent the primary food sources of fish in both cold and warm months.

Man poses in front of river in winter with steelhead caught while winter steelhead fishing

In early season (spring), when the water is cold, nymphs are usually slow-moving, and fish are more likely to be feeding near the bottom. The Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear can be fished deep, bouncing along the riverbed, where it imitates early-season mayfly nymphs and other aquatic insects that are hatching or present in the stream.

During the mid-season (summer), the water warms, and fish become more active. At this point, you can use the Hare’s Ear to fish either on the bottom or just under the surface, allowing the fly to drift naturally in the current. This makes it suitable for both deep-water fishing and fishing “in the film” just below the water’s surface, where many fish feed on emerging nymphs.

In the late season (fall), the water may cool again, and fish often become more sluggish. Here, the Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear continues to be effective as it can be presented slowly, letting the fly sink deep and stay close to the bottom. This mimics late-season nymph activity, making it a reliable choice throughout the autumn months when fish are preparing for the winter.

Ultimately, you’ll find that nymph fishing with a variety of Hare’s Ear patterns is a staple for virtually any angler. If you visit local streams or rivers, you’ll quickly notice that nymph fishermen often carry a collection of Hare’s Ear variations in their fly boxes. The versatility of this fly, in terms of size and color, makes it suitable for a wide range of aquatic environments and conditions.

Nymph Tactics for the Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear Fly Pattern

Nymphing is one of the most popular and effective techniques for catching fish, and the Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear is perfectly suited for this style of fishing. There are several nymphing tactics that anglers can use to maximize their chances of success, and the Hare’s Ear excels in many of them.

The most effective method when using the Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear is to fish it close to or directly on the bottom of the river or stream. This is because many nymphs, including mayflies, stoneflies, and caddis larvae, spend most of their lives at the bottom of the water column before emerging. In this tactic, the fly should be allowed to drift naturally along the bottom, where fish are actively hunting for food.

A fisherman stands along a large river fishing.

One critical element of successful nymph fishing is managing line drag. To ensure a drag-free drift, it’s important to mend your line as the fly moves downstream. By lifting and repositioning the line, you can maintain a smooth, natural drift that mirrors the way nymphs move through the current. The rod tip should remain raised to keep the line taut, and any time you notice a pause, twitch, or resistance, be ready to raise your rod quickly in response to a potential strike.

At the end of your drift, be sure to let the fly swing up off the bottom. Many fish will hit the fly just as it rises, so be prepared for strikes during this final phase of the presentation. The up-swing is often one of the most productive parts of the drift, as it imitates the movement of an emerging nymph or a struggling insect trying to make its way to the surface.

To further refine your nymph fishing technique, consider using a strike indicator to help detect subtle takes. A high-floating indicator will let you know when a fish has taken the fly, even if you don’t feel the strike directly. Make sure to adjust the length of the leader and the weight of the fly to ensure it stays in the strike zone throughout the drift.

While these nymphing tactics are effective, there is also great flexibility when fishing with the Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear. You can experiment with different depths, drift speeds, and retrieval methods to see what works best for the fish in your area. Additionally, the Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear can be tied in many sizes and colors, offering even more versatility. Whether you’re fishing small mountain streams or large, deep rivers, this fly is adaptable and proven to catch fish under a wide range of conditions.

Try tying your own variations of the Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear and experiment with different presentation techniques. Over time, you’ll develop your personal nymphing style and discover how well this fly works for your fishing conditions. Whether you’re fishing in fast-moving streams or slower waters, the Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear should undoubtedly have a place in your fly box, as it continues to be one of the most reliable and effective patterns in fly fishing.

Original Article By Brad Berlin

About The Author

Brad Berlin has been tying flies and fly fishing the streams of northeast and central Pennsylvania for over 30 years. He has guided on area streams and the Susquehanna River. Brad has taught classes in fly tying and casting and has served as president of the Columbia County Chapter of Trout Unlimited.

This article has been revised by Daniel O’Neill, an experienced angler and writer, to ensure its continued relevance and accuracy. As a result, it may no longer reflect the original author’s views or intentions.

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